4x8 utility trailer-instructions, Po angielsku

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4’x8’ Utility Trailer
JoeBlack_us
Construction Instructions
Page 1
4 x 8 Utility Trailer Construction Instructions
This trailer is designed specifically as a heavy-duty, utility trailer with a low profile bed and options for
versatility. The design incorporates strength in the main frame rather than requiring sides – even short
sides – to give adequate strength. This trailer is designed tough for long, faithful service – though it may
be a little heavier than some. This approach allows the trailer to be used in numerous ways for maximum
utility and versatility.
Your success with the trailer is dependent on the care given in construction – including materials used,
construction techniques and assembly methods. If you build it well, it will perform well. Load capacity is
dependent on the axle, tires, options and proper load application. The specified capacity does not include
capabilities of purchased parts like the hitch, chain, axle, tires, etc.. Do not exceed manufacturer limits.
As a reminder
, these plans are for individual use only. Any use of these plans for resale or for
producing products for sale is prohibited. Licensing for production and/or resale is available
on request. Intellectual property rights for all materials are reserved. We thank you again for
honoring these terms.
We truly hope you will enjoy your trailer, and to help ensure that, we have included a section of
Towing
Tips
at the end. Please use caution and proper safety equipment while building and using the trailer.
Components Required:
−
Axle Assembly:
Axle with spring centers at 48”. Several variations are available. The axle you choose
should fit your particular application and the vehicle you will be towing it with. The
following items must be considered when choosing an axle:
•
Axle Capacity
– This trailer design will accommodate a load capacity of up to 3500 lbs.
Typical available axles are 2000 lbs and 3500 lbs. Choose one applicable to your
requirements. This will determine how much weight your trailer can carry.
•
Straight or Drop axle
– this will determine, in part, the bed height. A drop axle will lower
the trailer 4” from the straight axle. If you are pulling it with a truck or other high clearance
vehicle, the straight axle will probably match better. If you will be pulling with a car or
minivan, the drop axle may be a better choice. Also consider loading the trailer – if ramps
are used to roll things on and off, the drop axle and lower bed may be better.
•
Underslung or Overslung Springs
– this will also effect trailer height – overslung is higher.
We recommend underslung springs for better towing stability.
•
Spring Type and Length
– Typical trailer leaf springs are available in “Slipper” and “Eye”
styles. We recommend the eye style because they make less noise and move some with a
load. It can be argued that they help stability with a single axle arrangement. Springs
come in various sizes or lengths (distance from eye to eye). We recommend longer
springs for a softer ride. The 27” eye to eye spring length is shown. This trailer is not
designed for coil or pneumatic springs.
•
With or Without Brakes
– this will effect your stopping distance. If you carry heavy loads,
particularly with a lighter vehicle, we recommend using brakes. Next choose Hydraulic or
Electric brakes. Electric is more common, and easier to adapt to other vehicles. Research
this topic if you need more info. Some states don’t allow surge hydraulic.
Axles can be purchased from Rigid Hitch, Northern, or many other places.
The axle shown in these instructions is Rigid Hitch # M-D3548-E – 3500#, 4” Drop axle, 27”
springs centered and underslung at 48” with electric brakes. This comes with all
mounting hardware required.
Page 2
−
Wheels and Tires
– these must match the axle bolt pattern. Specific trailer wheels and tires are
usually available with the axles, but another option is automotive parts. Most axles match an
auto bolt pattern (like a Ford 5-bolt) so common rims and tires can be used. For a great look,
nice wheels can be purchased from a scrap yard and standard tires can be mounted. Be sure
the load rating of the tires matches the load you expect. Also, if wheels and tires for the trailer
match those of the tow vehicle, an additional spare may not be necessary.
−
Trailer Fenders
– we recommend heavy-duty fenders like the Rigid Hitch #8433. Fenders come
in different sizes, configurations and materials. Choose plastic or composite for harsh
weather conditions. (Though you’ll have to find a different way to mount them.) The fenders
must accommodate the tire size and width. Check to see if your state requires fenders.
−
Trailer Ball Coupler
– must fit the ball size you use. We recommend a 2” ball and class IV
receiver for a 3500 lb trailer. To mount on this trailer, the coupler must accept a 3” square
tube. Rigid Hitch part # 22-300 is pictured in these instructions.
−
Safety Chains
– are required in most states for trailers over a certain size or weight. Generally,
we recommend safety chains. Rigid Hitch part # 51 will be adequate.
−
Lights, Wiring and Electric Connector
– these items will depend on taste, choice of brakes, and
connector type. For lights, the Rigid Hitch parts # 3504 (left) and #3554(right) are water-
resistant and will nest in the rear channel of the trailer. Side marker lights (if needed,
depending on state laws and your preference), wiring and connectors, must also be selected.
We suggest a liberal wire size and length. It can help avoid future problems.
−
Optional Equipment
:
•
Tongue Jack and/or Swivel Wheel – to help in loading the trailer and moving it when not
attached to the vehicle. Rigid Hitch # TJD-125 will fit most applications with this trailer. It
will jack up the tongue, roll around, and snap up along side the tongue tube when the
trailer is in tow.
•
Hitch handle – to lift tongue up to the hitch – not of much use with a heavy trailer or load.
•
Toolbox – pictured in some views. Many varieties exist from vendors like Rubbermaid,
and can be found at stores like K-Mart or Wal-Mart.
•
Trailer Sides – pictured in some views of this trailer – may be temporary or permanent.
Materials:
−
Steel
•
4” x 5.4 lb. C-Channel
–
2 @ 96” – main rail channels.
–
1 @ 50.5” – rear bed bumper channel.
•
2 1/2” x 1 1/2” x 3/16” Angle
–
5 @ 50.14” – cross members.
•
2” x 1 1/2” x 3/16” Angle
–
1 @ 50.5” – trailer bed front.
–
2 @ 18” – rear angle braces.
–
1 @ 10” – bed support angles.
–
1 @ 50.5” – bent front angle.
–
2 @ 48” – axle spring mount angle.
•
3” x 3” x 3/16” Square Tube
–
1 @ 96” – tongue tube.
Page 3
•
2 1/2” x 1/4” Flat Stock
–
1 @ 60” – tongue stiffener beam.
–
2 @ 12.5 – tongue stiffener gussets.
–
4 @ 11” – Fender mounting brackets.
•
4” x 1/8” Flat Stock
–
2 @ 42” – axle spring mount bolt plates.
–
2 @ 23.75” – front fascia.
•
6” x 3/16” Flat Stock
–
4 @ 6” x 6” x 45° – frame gussets.
–
1 @ 15” – tongue gusset.
•
1” x 1/4” Flat Stock or 1” x 3/16” Flat Stock
–
4 @ 7” – optional tail light protectors – not needed with optional hinged tailgate.
−
Bed:
•
4 x 8 x 3/4” Plywood Decking – 1 sheet – consider grade and treatment.
−
1/2" – 20 x 1.25” Grade 8 Bolts with locknuts and washers – 6 – for securing axle assemblies.
−
3/8" – 18 x 1 1/2” Carriage Bolts with locknuts and washers – 20 – for securing plywood decking.
−
1/2" – 20 x 4” Grade 8 Bolts with locknuts and washers – 4 – for securing hitch coupler.
−
Wheels, Tires and Lugnuts – many sizes and options available - 14” or 15” wheels - a variety of
tire sizes will work. 215-70-R15 tires are shown. Be sure to match load requirements.
−
Paint and/or other finishing supplies (depending on finish desired)
−
Ramp Option:
•
3/4” x 3/4” x 1/8” Angle – 2 @ 96” – under trailer ramp storage support angles.
•
2 1/2” x 1/4” Flat Stock
–
2 @ 90” – ramp side stiffener.
–
2 @ 5.25” – ramp catch plate ends.
•
4” x 1/8” Flat Stock
–
1 @ 23.75” – ramp catch plate.
•
2x4 or 2x6 x 8’ boards – 3 – for wood ramp core.
•
4 x 8 x ½” Plywood – 1 sheet – for wood ramp core.
•
1/2" x 4” steel rod – 2 – for ramp catch plate.
•
48 #8 x 2” wood screws.
−
Sides Option: will depend on your preferences, side height, top or no top, gate or door
configuration, permanent or removable, etc.. See drawings for more information.
** Due to the vast number of different requirements for sides, the plans show several options,
but materials required to build the sides are not included in this list. However, sides shown in
drawings are made from 2” x 1” x 1/8” Rectangular Steel Tube and 2” x 1.5” x 3/16” Angle for
the framing. 1/2" plywood is used inside.
Page 4
Tools Required:
−
Saw, to cut steel (circular saw may be used with a metal cutting abrasive blade).
−
Saw, to cut plywood and wood spacers (if applicable).
−
Welder capable of welding steel at 1/4” thick.
−
Hand grinder – for grinding welds and fitting metal pieces.
−
Adequate Drill and drill bits for 1/4"- 5/8” for wood and steel. See drawings.
−
C-clamps (many, varying sizes).
−
Straight edge (min 48”).
−
Square and Tape measure.
−
Wrenches, pliers, screwdrivers, Hammer, files and other common hand tools.
Component Suppliers:
−
Rigid Hitch Inc
. 3301 W Burnsville Pkwy.
Burnsville, MN 55337-4290
Phone: 800-624-7630 or (952) 895-5001
We like Rigid Hitch (even though they don’t have a web site) because they carry higher quality
components. They might be a little more expensive and they’ll probably refer you to a dealer.
−
Northern Tool & Equipment
Phone: 800-221-0516
Abbey Trailers Ltd
199-201 Abbey Street
Derby
Derbyshire
DE22 3ST
01332 348630
AL-KO Kober Ltd
South Warwickshire Business
Park
Kineton Road
Southam
Warwickshire
CV47 0AL
01926 818500
−
Search the Internet.
There are lots of places that sell trailer parts and accessories on line.
−
Check Local Sources.
Most cities and towns have a local source for trailer parts and
accessories. Check local listings. This is a great way to see
things prior to purchase.
Page 5
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