5-1PleatsSkirt ByAnaJan Instructions, wykroje krawieckie

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5+1 Pleats Skirt by AnaJan
Instructions
A skirt with one double-folded pleat on the left thigh, and five pleats on the right thigh.
Size 40 (waist 76cm, hips 100cm).
Note:
the technical drawing shows six pleats on the right, while the pattern actually includes five
pleats. Also, while I was sewing the skirt, I noticed that the front skirt panel is approx. 2cm
longer than it is supposed to be, sorry for that. You can crop the extra length after you sew the
pieces together.
2. Top front yoke
3. Middle front yoke
4. Bottom front yoke
1. Front skirt panel
5. Back side godet
6. Back central godet
Notions:
•
Light-weight wool, or any fabric that drapes well (1.30m x 1.40m)
•
Lining (0.60m x 1.40m)
•
Interfacing
•
Invisible zipper
•
Thread
•
Topstitch thread
Cutting pieces – fashion fabric
The pattern does not include seam allowances. Before cutting the fabric, add 1.5cm wide seam
allowances (2cm for the bottom hem).
•
Front skirt panel, cut once.
•
Top front yoke, cut once
•
Middle front yoke, cut once
•
Bottom front yoke, cut once
•
Back side godet, cut twice
•
Back central godet, cut twice
Interfacing the pieces
The front yoke pieces and the back godet pieces need interfacing.
The front yoke pieces should be completely interfaced, as displayed on the images bellow. The
interfacing is applied to the wrong side of the fashion fabric.
The back pieces of fashion fabric should be interfaced in the waist area, as displayed on the
images bellow.
Pleats
When transferring the front panel pattern to the fashion fabric, make sure you transfer all the
pleat lines as well. You should have 4 pleat lines on the left and 17 pleat lines on the right side of
the font panel.
The image bellow displays front skirt’s panel wit pleat lines markings on it. Note that pleat lines
on the left will be referenced as
LL1 – LL4
(left line) in the further text, starting from left to
right. The pleat lines on the right side of the panel will be referenced as
RL1 – RL17
(right line)
in the further text, starting from right to left.
LL1
LL4
RL17
RL1
The left pleat
Fold the fabric, with right sides together, and hand baste it, running your stitches through lines
LL1 and LL4. It is important to perfectly match the LL1 and LL4 lines. Make short stitches,
approximately 5mm long, and secure the beginning and the end of the stitch line so that it won’t
get loosen.
Tip:
pin the fabric in place first, and then hand - baste it. Start from the skirt’s hem line and baste
towards the waist line.
The pleats on the right
Fold the fabric, with right sides together, and hand baste it, matching the lines RL2 and RL4. For
all five pleats, match the following lines:
•
RL2 – RL4
•
RL5 – RL7
•
RL8 – RL10
•
RL11 – RL13
•
RL14 – RL15
After you have finished the hand – basting process, your front panel should look as on the picture
bellow.
Stitch every pleat, starting from the top of the skirt panel to the pleat stitch notch.
Pleat stitch notch
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